On Monday morning I received a phone call from the boss at home
advising that a package from Auscision Models had arrived. So I left
work reasonably early at 4:00pm and made my way home. Upon my arrival I unpacked the models and
took then straight down to the shed to run them on DC. They ran very smoothly
and I was most impressed with them. I then gathered some tools together:- Wire
Cutters, Soldering Iron, Solder, Tweezers, DCC wire, two decoders, a DC
throttle, a multi-meter, 2 x AA batteries in a battery holder, a 1K ohm resistor
and a small 3mm white LED, and then spent some time with the family over
dinner.
After dinner I read the instructions that came with the
models. I used the foam lid from the box as my work area, and proceeded to
disassemble the model by removing the KD’s and the chassis. At last access to
the internal wiring. I had a close and look and thought that I will be able to
install the motor decoder quite easily and then look at my additional decoder
for the rest of the lights. I removed the circuit board and cut off the front
headlight board. It was very easy to remove the two red wires and the two black
wires from the wheel pickups and then remove the red and black wires from the
motor and connect them to the orange and grey wires from the decoder. I chose an NCE N14SR decoder as it had 4 function outputs. However,
when I connected them red to orange and black to grey the loco ran in reverse.
What a stupid decision by the Chinese designers.
My plan is to use the N14SR decoder to power the motor and the lights at one end, and a 4 function FL4 for the other end. Maybe a Z14SR decoder may have been a better options as it is about half the size of the N14SR decoder.
Then my attention turned to the front light board that I
removed. I decided to try and workout what wire was what. I numbered the 5
wires from right to left. That is correct right to left when viewed from the
rear, with the lights facing forward away from me. After some trial and error,
I worked out that when my 3V battery with its 1K ohm resistor was connected black to wire 1 and red to
wire 4, we had white marker lights. When I connect the wires in the reverse
order, black to wire 4 and red to wire 1, we had red marker lights. Immediately
I thought that was not good. Again a stupid decision by the Chinese designers.
It appears that these two LED’s were wired back to back on the little light
board at the front and rear of the loco. I would have thought that it would
have been smarter to do all the magic back on the circuit board in the loco and
run one extra wire to the light board at the front or rear of the loco. Sure that might have made one of the switches into a DPDT switch, or put a fourth switch in. That
way it would be easier to DCC the loco eventually. I'd bet that there will end up being more DCC versions than DC versions eventually.
When you run the black wire from the 3V battery to wire 1 and
the red wire to wire 5, we get the headlight lighting up. When you run the black
wire from the battery to wire 2 and the red wire to wire 3, we get the number
boards being lit.
So with my small brain, I immediately wondered if it was
electrically possible to use two decoders to get the red and white marker lights
working alternately or even similtaneously. Can I connect the blue wire from decoder 1 to the wire 1 and the green
wire to wire 4. At the same time can I connect the blue wire of decoder 2 to
wire 4 and the green wire to wire 1. Of Course both green wires will have a 1K ohm resistor installed on them. Does this proposed implemetation cause issues? So my plan is when I turn on
function 1 in the first decoder, I get the white lights. When I turn on a
remapped say function 3 (for example) on the second decoder, I get red lights. So I ask the vast
collection of electrical gurus in this WWW thing “Will this work, or will
it cook two decoders?”
I can be happy with controllable headlight, number boards and
white marker lights with no red marker lights at each end, but if I can I would
like to get them working as well.
I just feel this is poor planning for the DCC world in which
we now live. Boo to those Chinese designers.
I had planned on taking some photos of my dissassembed 73 tonight, but cannot be bothered, I've had a bad day at work working with imbeciles, late buses and I am totally spent. Last night I took the 73's to Lefty's place for Tuesday Nighters and ran it on his layout. It ran very smoothly in DCC mode except for being in reverse. I will fix up the two wires to the motor on Friday night and further investigate the lighting controls.
Hey Craig you are not alone I just wasted 4hrs mucking around tring to get this happening ,they are kidding 5 red wires and 5 black wires. I rang Auscision for a wiring diagram ,their response have a look on youtube, where on our way to an exibition.
ReplyDeleteThanks Craig, I thought it was just me. Looks like we all have some major exploring to do to get our beasts operating on DCC with all lighting. I am going to attempt to fit a Loksound v4 into my 7350, 16mm speaker inside the cab. I will have to lose the cab interior to do it. It is really great to have a hood unit that is actually easy to get into!
ReplyDeleteHi Terry
DeleteI was thinking of tring something similar I was just wondering what sound file you were going to use.
Cheers Jon
Mate.
ReplyDeleteYou should do an article in the Australian Model mag on how to do a decoder install on these beauties
Terry,
ReplyDeleteYou will have to document your install so we can all see ehat you did. I know of a few people holding off purchasing 73's until there are some running around with decoders fitted.
Craig
Hi all. Thanks for your feedback. I have another project I am working on at the moment; a QR 1300 Class (Wuiske body; Bullant chassis.) To be fitted with a South West Digital British class 37. Anyone from QLD or WA knows the incredibly distinctive sound of the English Electrics - which I love. Once done, I will do my 73, following the same lines as my Trainorama 4705, which has a Loksound v3.5; speaker in the cab, and with a Caterpillar engine (Loksound Project 72443), and a Leslie 3 chime horn. (Not the correct sound I believe, but sounds OK to my uneducated Western Australian ears!) ESU have a caterpillar sound for V4.0, so I'll give it a try. I'll keep you posted.
ReplyDelete